Must-see in Copenhagen: a first-timer's guide

A brief history Copenhagen started as a fishing village whose harbour Bishop Absalon fortified in 1167 — the name means "merchants' harbour". It became the capital of a Nordic empire, burned and rebuilt repeatedly, and was bombarded by the British fleet in 1807. Twentieth-century social democracy shaped its bicycles, housing and welfare, and today it is a benchmark for design, cycling and New Nordic food. 10 must-see attractions 1. Nyhavn — the postcard canal of coloured 17th-century houses, once sailors' territory. 2. Tivoli Gardens — an 1843 pleasure garden of wooden roller coasters, lanterns and concerts. 3. The Little Mermaid — Andersen's bronze heroine on a harbour rock, smaller than you expect. 4. Christiansborg Palace — parliament, royal reception rooms and a free tower view. 5. Rosenborg Castle — a renaissance royal retreat holding the Danish crown jewels. 6. Freetown Christiania — a self-governing former barracks turned alternative community. 7. Amalienborg — four rococo palaces and the noon changing of the guard. 8. National Museum of Denmark — Viking hoards, bog finds and Nordic history under one roof. 9. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — coastal sculpture park and modern art 35 minutes north by train. 10. Round Tower — a 17th-century observatory climbed by a spiral ramp instead of stairs. Tip: rent a bike on day one; the city is flat and made for it.